Looking Back, and Ahead

It seems like ages ago that I stepped onto that plane bound for Incheon International Airport, much longer than a year, but what a year it has been.  In certain respects it has been a really challenging year, but challenge is good.  It forces us to deal with issues and find solutions.  Before I even considered moving to Korea I scribbled down a few things that I considered important to me.  One thing that continually came up was the desire to travel.

So when the opportunity to come to Korea arose, the ability to travel and see a different part of the world definitely played a big part in my decision.  Not only have I spent a year in Korea, but Gina and I were able to go to Vietnam and Cambodia in the winter, and I just returned from Thailand.  It only whet the palate to see more of this amazing planet.

Another major factor in my decision to move here was stagnancy in my professional life.  I loved so many parts of my previous job and was very comfortable there, but at some point I was going to have to move on, and I was not sure where that step would take me.  Coming to Korea bought me some time to figure that out, while also providing that opportunity to travel and grow personally.

I still haven't figured out where my life is going, but I'm much more comfortable with that now than I was 12-15 months ago.  Taking a step back opened the door for me to examine what is really important, and doing that from another country allows you to see what things about home are important.  In my case, there is very little that I missed that I didn't have here, but what I did miss (people) was very important.

One note of advice for others considering living abroad:  don't try the long-distance relationship thing unless you have to; it's really, really hard.  On the bright side, in my situation my relationship definitely improved and strengthened over this year, but it was a challenging time and full of its ups and downs.

Being away also made some things easier.  It wasn't simply a product of being away, but I made more gains this year in fitness and general health than the previous couple years combined.  It's been about five years now since I made a strong commitment to working out and changing my diet.  Many changes have been gradual (i.e. dropping soda, etc.), but this year I made some significant improvements.  One major factor was time.  I had a lot of free time to learn more about fitness and nutrition, and I took advantage of it by doing a lot of reading and trying some new things.  Much of it was the coalescence of previously known information, like a light bulb movement.  Sometimes you just have to be exposed to things multiple times for them to sink in, but I'm really grateful for the steps I've been able to make in that field.  It also helped me discover that fitness and nutrition is something that I'm really passionate about.  I should have noticed it much earlier, but it never really clicked for me.  I'm not sure that I'll pursue a career in either of those fields, but it's something I plan on checking out.

That wasn't the only area I delved into deeper.  I also read more books this year than probably the last two years combined.  I finally started knocking off some of the classics that I always meant to read, and that's something that I plan to continue working on when I get home.  Reading consistently makes me at least feel like I'm learning something, and usually, I think, that's the case, even if it's only stretching my vocabulary a bit.

I think most of the improvements I've made in my life I should be able to transition back stateside.  Some will be harder than others, and of course whatever job(s) I get will have an impact on some, but I'm optimistic.  However, there are many positives about life here though that I will miss.

I'm going to miss (in no particular order): the instant smile that graces my face so often when kids light up when they see me, the public transportation system, the relatively carefree life, loads of free time, the food, co-workers and friends and the ability to take bi-annual, amazing vacations.

I already touched on the benefits of free time and a low-stress environment, but I'm really not sure if I can place a value on the smiling thing.  I noticed it so much throughout the year, whether it was my students or kids I interacted with on the street.  So often I'd be in a bad or sub-par mood and a short interaction with students would force a grin to my face.

I know one thing I'm really going to miss is the transportation system.  I understand why Wisconsin and much of the US doesn't have good public transit, but living in an area that does makes you appreciate it so much.  I love living in an area where practically everything I need is within a 10-minute walk, and if something isn't that close I can grab a nearby bus easily or walk five minutes to the subway station.  I don't miss having a car one bit, and I actually dread the search for one, and more so the cost of not only the car but insurance and gas, when I get home.

On the vacation front, I hope to continue that as a priority, but I realize that vacations of the sort I enjoyed this year probably aren't in the cards for a while.

There is a lot to look forward to, too.  I'm very excited to come home and be reunited with friends and family.  I'm really looking forward to having an oven to cook with again, and it will be nice to have access to the ingredients needed to try out so many of the new recipes I stumbled upon this year.  And, most importantly (just kidding, really), I'm coming home just in time for football season and the finish of baseball season!  Although I will miss watching games in the morning and having the rest of the day free to do something else.

Overall, it was a fantastic year, but I'm ready and excited to come home.  I met some great people, made some fantastic memories and became a better person.  I have few regrets, and no complaints.

Under the Sea

If Chiang Mai was a step back from Bangkok's hustle and bustle, Koh Tao is a sleeping pill.  It was the perfect order for a vacation, each step was a little more laid back, and, for that matter, a little more beautiful.  I could have plopped on Koh Tao for a long, long time.

While relaxing was certainly on the bill for my stay, my main focus was scuba diving.  Originally I hemmed and hawed over diving.  I wasn't sure if it was something I really wanted to do, and it isn't exactly cheap compared to other activities in Thailand, but I decided - with a little convincing from some friends of mine - that it was the thing to do.  Those same friends, the wonderful Brian and Whitney, also recommended a dive shop and resort, and as usual their advice turned out gold.  Ban's was fantastic.  Not only is located smack dab in the middle of Sairee Beach, but there is everything one could need practically on site and if not on site, just next door. 

Unfortunately getting PADI - the leading diver training organization - certified required a good deal of homework.  Fortunately it was pretty easy, even for my tired, tired skull.  Thankfully on day number two we put some of the book learnin' to use, albeit in the swimming pool.  It was challenging to get the hang of things, but with the certainty of the bottom of the pool it wasn't too nerve-wracking.   I was a little concerned how I'd handle the breathing, as you really should be calm and consistent underwater, but it went much better than I expected.

The next day was live bullets as we finished up our classroom activities in the morning, took our final exam and went out to the ocean in the p.m.  My first dive was quite a learning experience.  When descending it's important to remember to equalize the pressure in your sinuses and ears.  This can be done by swallowing, or most commonly pinching your nose and trying to blow out through your nose.  Well, I thought I was doing it right, but I must have done something wrong (in retrospect I think I just went down too fast), and I ended up with splitting ear pain.  I ended up going all the way to the surface, but I got past it and got back under the water.

One unfortunate downside was the ill-fitting mask.

I started to get the hang of it more with the second dive of the day, and the following day went even better as each of the last two dives I felt more and more comfortable.  I still had a twinge of "this is awesome, but I can't wait to get out of here," but I think that would go away with time.  The good news is if I want to try it again I'm certified for the rest of my life.  The better news is that it gives yet another reason to visit tropical places...

Then again I could go back to Koh Tao in a heartbeat.  I mean with scenes like this, who wouldn't want to...

Chillin' in Chiang Mai

After almost five days in fast-paced Bangkok I was ready to move on.  It turns out that Chiang Mai was a great change of pace.  Built around an old core that is surrounded by ancient walls and a moat, Chiang Mai, especially the central old city, has a relaxed feel and is incredibly easy to navigate.  It really reminded me of a city that Gina and I visited in Vietnam (Hue).  It was just a little bigger with more to do.  It was just what I needed after the frenetic pace of Bangkok.

I got into the city a little earlier than expected and was able to check in to my guesthouse right away, so after a little rest I ventured out to see the city.  It turns out that I was able to see much of the old city that first afternoon and evening, which freed up a lot of time to do other things the rest of my stay.

Of course I stopped at a bunch of the city's temples, famous and not, as I walked the city.  The major highlights included Wat Phra Singh, the city's most revered wat, and Wat Chedi Luang, formerly home to the Emerald Buddha now in Bangkok.

Chedi Luang

Chedi Luang

Chedi Luang

I also checked in at the place I was going to couchsurf at and got a Thai massage (think someone manipulating your body like a pretzel) there and then walked on to Chinatown and the night market.  It was a busy afternoon, so I was plenty happy, for more than one reason, to spend the next day in one location.

I love Thai food and I like to cook, so it was pretty much a no-brainer to do a cooking class somewhere in Thailand.  Thankfully my friend Emily had a good recommendation from when she visited in the winter.  I decided to check it out, and it didn't disappoint.  We cooked from about 10-3:30, plating seven courses and filling our stomachs all the while.  I made incredibly (supposedly normal for Thais) spicy soup with sweet basil, drunken noodles (noodles marinated in sauce), delectable papaya salad, fried ginger with chicken, panang curry and pumpkin in coconut milk for dessert.  Our teacher was entertaining, the food was delicious and I learned something; it's hard to beat that.

soup prep

spicy soup with sweet basil

drunken noodles

fried ginger with chicken

papaya salad

pumpkin in coconut milk

panang curry

The next couple of days were filled with walking markets, where I did most of my souvenir shopping, new food choices and my first couchsurfing experience.  I stayed just a few minutes outside the east gate with a British expat and his Thai wife.  He moved here to retire a handful of years ago, and she runs a massage shop downstairs.  Proximity has its advantages, and of course I took advantage of a couple of wonderful massages.  I wish it were so inexpensive at home. 

View from the rooftop garden of the couchsurfing joint.

After a rainy day we had a flash of sunshine, so I quickly took advantage of it and rented a moped to climb Doi Suthep and check out the temple at the top and a waterfall in the national park there.  It was a beautiful day, but it didn't last for ever.  More on that later.

The way to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.

On the way down I planned to check out three temples that were just a little outside of walking distance from the city, and surprisingly I found them pretty well on the moped, only having to turn around a couple times.  The first temple was pretty nondescript, but the second (Wat Suan Dok) was fantastic, even if the incoming clouds put a damp on things a bit.

As I ventured to my last stop, Wat Jet Yot, those rain clouds you see above started to burst, but I was determined to make it.  I'm still not sure that was the right decision.  I made it to the temple without much damage, but getting back to the bike shop was a wet, wet adventure.  I guess it will be a memory I won't forget, and at least the contents of my backpack stayed dry.  And the temple was pretty cool.  I probably would have spent more time there if not for the rain.

Wat Jet Yot

My last day I was planning to go to an elephant camp and interact with the animals, etc., but I waited to book it because of the weather and when I went back they were full.  It probably was for the better as I was exhausted and used the time to unwind a bit and relax, which was really nice.  The next morning it was off to Koh Tao.

What's the capital of Thailand?

Sorry, I couldn't resist.  But yes, I did just return from Thailand, and my first stop was glorious Bangkok.  Known as a fast-paced city, Bangkok certainly lived up to that reputation.  It always seemed to be awake and always bustling with activity.

First stop for many young travelers in Bangkok is Khao San Road.  The name has become common on the lips of travelers worldwide as the place to go in Bangkok, especially for backpackers.  It has accommodation, plenty of restaurants, bars and food stalls, merchants galore and all the usual tourists claptrap.  I certainly checked it out, but I'm quite glad I chose to stay a little farther afield.  My hostel was fantastic.  It may have been a little more expensive than some of the dives on Khao San, but it was relatively quiet, had great food stalls just across the street from it and had a good mix of fun guests.

Two of those guests and I decided to head to the Chatuchak Weekend Market on my first full day in Bangkok.  A slight rain was annoying but not unexpected for the rainy season.  JJ, as it's often called, was a blast.  It was hard not to get lost in the 35-acre browser's paradise.  They had everything from household goods and clothes to souvenirs and of course food and drink.  I didn't want to do too much souvenir shopping early in my trip, but I was able to pick up needed things like sandals, sunglasses and the like.  I even got my pair of cliche, one-size-fits-all Thai fisherman pants, which actually came in handy the following day for temple hopping where long pants are a requirement.

Bangkok was street food central for me.  I think I ate maybe one meal at a restaurant the whole time I was in the city.  Considering that, I was incredibly lucky to have a gaggle of food stalls just across the street from my hostel, including one serving up some of the best pad thai I've ever tried.

The next day I began my serious temple exploring.  If you've never been to Asia than it's hard to explain how common temples can be, but each country has it's own little twist.  In Thailand it seems to be glitter and gold, which makes for some stunning scenes.  Many people burn out on temples (wats in Thailand) pretty fast, but I'm not one of them, so for me it was great.

The first stops on my itinerary included the holy trinity of Bangkok temples: Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho and Wat Arun.  I got a pretty early start and bucked through the light rain to get to the always busy Wat Phra Kaew (the name means home of the Emerald Buddha) and the adjacent Grand Palace.  Unfortunately I was too dimwitted to change the setting on my camera and many of my pictures turned out too dark with the gray skies overhead.  The place is huge though, and it's architecture stunning.  I just wish it had been a sunny day.  Even still the place was packed with tourists.

Emerald Buddha

I trudged on after the big temple and palace to the famous Wat Pho, which is home to the reclining Buddha.  It was worth seeing, but it was one of my least favorite temples because of the crowd and the pushy atmosphere it spawned. 

Then it was time for something eat and to venture across the river to Wat Arun.  The decision to stop to eat became a no-brainer when the skies completely opened up, and unfortunately this postponed my journey across the river, too.  But I had a nice long lunch with an Australian guy at a busy little joint near the river and then made my way back toward home base.



On the way I stopped a couple more places, including maybe my favorite temple, Wat Suthat.  Outside it is the Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha), formerly used for monthly religious ceremonies, and while that probably is what catches the eye of most passersby, the good stuff was on the inside.

Inside was a refuge from the non-stop nature of Bangkok.  It was exactly what I picture a temple to be: quiet, almost serene, beautiful and awesome.  The walls are covered in incredible murals that depict stories of the Buddha.  I wish my pictures could do them any justice.

The night view.

I made one more stop on the way back at the nearby Wat Ratchantdarum and its neighbor Loha Prasat.  Both places stood out from other temples, which is one thing I enjoyed about Thai temples compared to their Chinese and Korean cousins.  It seems to me that Thai temples, in general, have more obvious distinctions.

Wat Ratchantdarum

Loha Prasat

Loha Prasat

The next day I had big plans to catch a mini-bus for the two-hour trek to the old capital of Ayuthaya.  I made it to the area where the buses were supposed to leave from, but seeing no foreigners, no English signs and not knowing where to go I eventually changed courses.  Tired, hungry and a bit perturbed, I first dealt with the hunger issue and then made a new plan.  I hopped back on the skytrain, hooked up with the metro and popped out in Chinatown.  Best decision ever.

Bangkok's Chinatown is sprawling with back alley commerce rich in food, most importantly, and seemingly any kind of household good or clothing you could desire.  I spent a good deal of time oogling all sorts of culinary concoctions and trying a fair number as I crosscrossed the area.  I even had a bowl of expensive, but tasty, bird's nest soup (google it; it's not gross at all but really good).

Bird's Nest Soup and Ginseng Tea

Then I hoofed it over to the pier to ferry over to Wat Arun.  Thankfully the skies were mostly clear as I hit the last of the trinity of Bangkok temples.

The temple is speckled with tons of Chinese porcelain.

At that point I had done almost everything I had wanted to do in Bangkok, so it was nice to have the following morning just to relax.  In the afternoon I checked out a couple of final places before making one more stop to Khao San and packing up.

Golden Mount

At the top!

I capped Bangkok with some new tastes (bugs and roti) and some old (great street pad thai).

I tried a grasshopper and some crickets.  They were just crunchy, not much taste.

Delicious banana and honey roti.

Next up: Chiang Mai